A&I sells them at a much more reasonable price than New Holland.
If they get too smooth they will not start a bale worth a shit in grass especially with NH belts. I would even go and have all the cylinders rebuilt and check and make sure the self contained cylinder that controls tension on the bale is charged up I too just purchased a baler on an auction, Heston 560.
I too just purchased a baler on an auction, Heston 560. Up here the sides just flat wear out about 30 to 40k bales. I only own a half ton Chevy and everyone thought I was crazy to drag it home (400 miles).
Also, there was a local 660 for sale but it had net wrap. If you haul it, take a big block to set the hitch on, that prevents the wobble from the jack and a solid place to pull against with the chain.
I don't know about switching the net wrap, someone else might know.
There is only a bearing on one end and the rest are bushings. I cut them I n half and milled a piece of shaft down with a shoulder to fit inside so its wearing a shaft and not a pipe.
Pretty much just go through and check every single part that moves, not just the big stuff, everything!!There is nothing better than knowing you have good bearings!! Chances are they need to be replaced or will need to be sooner than later(00) Next look at the belt drive release clutch on the far top left side of the baler. Take all the bands off the pickup and check the cam follower bearings.After that periodically check with a heat gun and crack the window on the cab a listen now and then. Nothing is worse than one of those going and jamming the pickup.If the belts are New Holland ones with the crappy claw splice and the cable take them off and replace them with a rivet style splice. The top one which is dimpled and the bottom one which is smooth have 1/4 inch bars welded on them.We have John Deere belts on ours which is a BIG improvement! They need to be fairly square yet not all rounded off.Shoup has one that is identical to the JD splices only much cheaper for their toll than from JD lol.